The first rule of drinking like a Colorado local is never order a Colorado Bulldog. Despite its name, the cocktail — essentially a White Russian plus Coca Cola — is not a state-sanctioned classic.
“The secret behind it is that no one orders it unless they are a tourist,” said writer Amanda M. Faison. “So you’re a dead ringer for like a Texan if you go to a bar in Colorado and order a Colorado Bulldog.”
Faison would know. She spent two decades as an editor at 5280 Magazine, with about half of those specializing in food coverage. During her tenure, she watched the Denver’s hospitality scene explode and find its footing as a destination on par with other major metropolitan cities.
More recently, Faison put her institutional knowledge to work for a book called “Colorado Cocktails,” which serves as a guide to more than 100 of the state’s best bars, distilleries and libations. The book, now available via Cider Mill Press, traces the modern cocktail movement from Denver to Durango and beyond, so that no matter where you are, you can always find a well-crafted beverage.
That includes at home. In addition to highlighting local businesses, “Colorado Cocktails” includes recipes from each one to spark inspiration for your home bar. The book is one in a series of geographically-focused releases that aim to enshrine cocktail culture and must-hit spots in numerous states and cities across the globe.
So where does Colorado’s story begin? Unequivocally at Denver speakeasy Williams & Graham, Faison said.
Opened in 2011 with the entrance hidden behind a bookcase, Williams & Graham was the first to put an emphasis on creating inventive cocktails and stocking interesting spirits. That, in turn, attracted folks who were interested in novel libations and helped build a community of industry personnel who ideated on what craft cocktails could be.
“It was (owner) Sean Kenyon’s brand of hospitality and the way he presented cocktails to Denver,” Faison said. “(The bar) became like a think tank. So much has spun out from there.”
Adding to its success was the fact that every drinker was welcome at Williams & Graham, whether you were drinking a Sazerac or had never heard of most classic cocktails.
“If you wanted something very, very simple, they would make something very, very simple for you. Or if you wanted to go to the other extreme and kind of taste whatever they were working on or something off the menu, you could do that too,” Faison said. “They were so busy, there were lines out the door and they honored every patron.”
In the years since, Faison said there’s been a “democratization of cocktails” throughout the state. Meaning you don’t have to go to a high end haunt where the staff sports vests and mustaches to find a decent drink. “You can easily just go down around the corner and get a phenomenal Manhattan or a really terrific gimlet,” she said.
Though Colorado is widely regarded as craft beer country, that hasn’t hindered the evolution of local cocktails. If anything, Faison believes it may have benefitted the movement by cultivating more informed and open-minded consumers.
Denver remains the epicenter of the cocktail scene, where Faison’s book features a mix of old and new tastemakers, for example, The Cruise Room and Death & Co. But the book travels far and wide, from Fort Collins to Grand Junction and remote enclaves in between.
Turns out, you’re never too far from a worthwhile drink, even in mountain towns where, a decade ago, you may have expected only to find cheap beer or a crappy glass of wine. As an example, Faison points to the tiny Western Slope town of Ouray, now home to The Western hotel and its Prohibition-era saloon. Closer to the Front Range, there’s Fairplay and Snitching Lady Distillery.
One aspect of “Colorado Cocktails” that captures the distinct moment at which it was written is its inclusion of non-alcoholic and low-ABV cocktails. These are not your average mocktails, Faison is quick to note. They are carefully crafted libations just like any other cocktail – just sans alcohol – that reflect the way people are drinking post-pandemic.
As vast as Colorado’s cocktail scene may be, Faison said it is united in supporting its homegrown makers. Bars regularly stock Colorado-made spirits, many of which are made from locally grown ingredients, and bartenders take pride in showcasing the unique flavors of the state. Faison chalks it up to the pioneer spirit that has long defined what it means to be a Coloradan.
“The land has always been a really important part of all things Colorado,” she said. “Even as we become more advanced in our society and more connected to the world and states around us via all things digital, I do think there is a tie to the land and people are still drawn to Colorado for both the sprit of the state and the actual, physical landscape.”
Thirsty to learn more? “Colorado Cocktails: An Elegant Collection of Over 100 Recipes Inspired by the Centennial State” is now for sale via Cider Mill Press, Amazon and other major retailers.
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